• Ghasa to Tukuche

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    Forest. The first hour or so of the trip are on a wide undulating road through forest that also seems to be the main thoroughfare for pilgrims returning from their pilgrimage to Muktinath. I walk rather blindly, calls of ” Yannis!” still ringing in my head, paying little heed to my surroundings. Pilgrims, forest, mules,…

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  • Tea and biscuit days

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    He’d been dead a long while now of course, your dad. But that didn’t stop you thinking about him. Looking at the photo, it was easy to bring him back. Easy to remember him. Crisp cream trousers, with a neat, stylish pleat. Cool white shirt, long sleeved. Braces and belt. Black leather. Brown sandals with…

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  • An evening in “The National” guesthouse

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    Now, Jeanna had told us of the decidedly unique approach that Nepalis seem to have when it comes to advertising. Her favourite example is of a bar in Kathmandu that she frequents. The said establishment cheerfully announces that its “Happy Hour” lasts from 2 p.m. – 6 p.m. and that during these rip-roaring times all…

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  • Tatopani to Ghasa

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    I must say that the Trekkers Lodge guesthouse in Tatopani really was beautiful. Set in a small tropical garden, with a path that leads down to the hot springs and the river, the setting is very tranquil and luxurious. Tatopani is quite a lively little village and has plenty of stores selling all kinds of…

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  • November

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    It came more or less unnoticed. Simply slipped inside and curled up while no-one was looking. Then, when the moment was right, made its presence felt and let it be known that it was here. Here for good. Here for as long as it took.

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