• Final day: Kagbeni to Muktinath

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    Normally I am droopy eyed and senseless in the mornings but the views from the sun room at the top of the aptly named Niligri View guesthouse have roused me from my usual sloth and I am wide awake. Is there any better start to a day than to sit in the warmth of the…

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  • Scar Tissue

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    It was her hands that triggered it. The way they were folded over one another as though she was clutching at herself in disbelief or shock. It was strange to see how smooth the skin was. It looked plump and youthful, pumped up with a chemical waxiness that allowed the death to somehow drain from…

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  • Marpha to Kagbeni

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    We leave Marpha the next morning under a slate grey sky that is heavy and strangely silent. Pulling out of town we pass a set of prayer wheels. The coloured prayer flags are ragged and faded and they flutter forlornly in the air. For some reason I am transfixed by them but as I stop…

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  • Tukuche to Marpha

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    It’s best to leave Tukuche in the morning before the wind picks up (some time around eleven). Blowing in through the Annapurnas and Dhaulagiri, it sends a fine mist of grey, grainy dust swirling around you. Going in this direction isn’t so bad, as you have the wind in your back. Those coming in from…

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  • Midnight Rowing

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    Twenty four attempts. That was the total for the year and it was a record. At least five of them, he knew, could be accounted for by Gregg Sullivan. Five times that fool had gone under, and five times he’d somehow been hauled to the surface. One of the attempts he’d managed to scupper himself,…

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