• Homecoming

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    Here he comes again. It’s eleven thirty, the time when he comes in for his tea. He orders it with lemon. On the menu it’s listed as Russian tea but no-one really knows why. “Do they really drink it this way in Russia?” he asked the first time. “I don’t know. I suppose they must…

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  • Hille to Ghorapani

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    This is as strenuous as it’s going to get. An ascent of 1390 metres in one day and all of it on a stone staircase of more than 3300 steps. But watching the early morning mist trail off on the rice terraces it doesn’t seem such a daunting prospect for some reason. There’s something about…

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  • Naya Pul to Hille

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    Day one and it’s an early start. Six a.m. and we’re all packed and ready to go, standing in the garden, bleary eyed and dazed, waiting for Laxman and the cars that will take us to Naya Pul and the start of the trail. I am no good in the mornings so all I recall…

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  • Hiring a guide

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    Technically there is no need whatsoever to hire guide on the Jomsom Trek. The trail follows a mule path which is a well worn trade route to the temple at Muktinath. Getting lost is quite simply impossible. The Jomsom Trek is also affectionately known as “the apple pie trail”, a quaint tag which refers to…

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  • Tranquility

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    Twenty minutes into our arrival in Pokhara and we’ve already been approached by a guide and a porter. “Where are we going? Do we need a porter? A guide? Where are we staying? When do we plan to head out?” Questions, questions. The answer to all of them being a collective “We don’t know.” We…

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