Travel

  • Marpha to Kagbeni

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    We leave Marpha the next morning under a slate grey sky that is heavy and strangely silent. Pulling out of town we pass a set of prayer wheels. The coloured prayer flags are ragged and faded and they flutter forlornly in the air. For some reason I am transfixed by them but as I stop

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  • Tukuche to Marpha

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    It’s best to leave Tukuche in the morning before the wind picks up (some time around eleven). Blowing in through the Annapurnas and Dhaulagiri, it sends a fine mist of grey, grainy dust swirling around you. Going in this direction isn’t so bad, as you have the wind in your back. Those coming in from

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  • Ghasa to Tukuche

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    Forest. The first hour or so of the trip are on a wide undulating road through forest that also seems to be the main thoroughfare for pilgrims returning from their pilgrimage to Muktinath. I walk rather blindly, calls of ” Yannis!” still ringing in my head, paying little heed to my surroundings. Pilgrims, forest, mules,

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  • An evening in “The National” guesthouse

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    Now, Jeanna had told us of the decidedly unique approach that Nepalis seem to have when it comes to advertising. Her favourite example is of a bar in Kathmandu that she frequents. The said establishment cheerfully announces that its “Happy Hour” lasts from 2 p.m. – 6 p.m. and that during these rip-roaring times all

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  • Tatopani to Ghasa

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    I must say that the Trekkers Lodge guesthouse in Tatopani really was beautiful. Set in a small tropical garden, with a path that leads down to the hot springs and the river, the setting is very tranquil and luxurious. Tatopani is quite a lively little village and has plenty of stores selling all kinds of

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