Jen Harvey

Jen Harvey

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It Really Is A Beautiful Day

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The day she finally did it, it was a Saturday and Sal and I were in town.

I’d gone upstairs in the morning and brought her coffee, and asked if she wanted me to fetch anything for her.

“No, I’m fine. Maybe I’ll head into town myself later. It looks like it’s going to be a nice day.”

And I’d laughed a little.

“Yeah…”

She met my gaze and I saw in her eyes that something was different. As if she saw, for the first time, that I doubted she would ever leave the house.

I don’t know if she was shocked or sad. It was more as if she froze, unable, for an instant, to take in what it was that had just happened.

“Sorry. I didn’t mean to laugh. It just kinda came out.”

“It’s okay. Can you close the curtains a little bit? The sun’s getting in my eyes.”

“Sure.”

She had already turned over and from behind it looked as if she was comforting herself.

So I didn’t kiss her goodbye. Just walked out the door and left her there.

“She need anything?”

“No.”

“Good. Let’s get going then.”

“Hm…”

“What? What is it?”

“I dunno. Something was different.”

“Different? What do you mean?”

“Just different. I dunno. She just seemed different.”

“Yeah, and? ….”

“I dunno, okay?”

“Damn it Danny, if you think there’s something wrong with her just say it. If not, then get a move on and let’s get out of here okay?”

“Yeah, let’s go. It’s nothing. She’s just tired is all.”

“Tell me something new.”

Sally had no patience with mum any more. In the beginning, she was the one that used to look in on her in the mornings. Brought her coffee, checked if she needed anything, made sure she was okay. But now she never bothered.

“Why should I be looking after her?”

I always argued with her when she said that.

“She’s just sad is all it is, Sal. You shouldn’t be so cruel, so harsh on her.”

“Danny, just shut it okay? I’ve tried to help her. And now you’re trying to help her. But nothing works. She doesn’t want anyone’s help. She’s beyond help. She just wants to lie there all day. You think I wouldn’t help her if I could?”

“No….no, I know you would. It’s just … she’s depressed, Sal. She needs help. She still needs us.”

“Yeah, well on you go. It’s not my turn any more, but you go ahead. Anyway, you’re just a kid, what the hell do you know about depression? She can just bloody well stop lying around all day. That’s what would really help her. Why can’t she just get up?”

“I’m fifteen, Sal. I know enough, okay? Just give her a break. She needs to get over this. And anyway, it’s not that easy. You know that. She misses him.”

“Yeah, well dad’s not coming back, is he? So she might as well get used to the idea, same as we’ve had to.

Damn it! We’re the kids, Danny. Us. We’re the ones she should be looking after…..”

In the beginning, in the first few months after dad took off, we’d had that conversation nearly every day, me and Sal. About how mum should be looking after us.

But lately she’d given up arguing with me about it. She just wanted to get on with things. Which I guess is the right way to deal with things sometimes.

So now, come Saturday, she’d let me hang around with her and her friends in town. When dad was still around, I was the annoying kid sister, and she kept me well away. But now she was determined to keep me out of the house, away from “all the crap in there that just gets you down.”

“Just don’t get in the way, okay?”

That was her only rule.

Which was fine by me. I would sit there and watch her goofing around. Talking about boys, music, the usual stupid gossip. It seemed exciting somehow. A nice distraction.

Because when I was alone, I’d think about him too much. Why it was he left.

I’d started to think that maybe it wasn’t really about love after all. That it was just the way he was. He was just one of those people that didn’t really need anyone. He had that distance about him, that way of disengaging himself from all the people, all the things, around him. Like the way he would sit in the living room, staring at nothing. Just thinking about things. And you could move around in the room without him ever noticing you were there. And talking to him was pointless, because whatever it was that was in his head, it distracted him too much.

I think he tried to stay. Tried as long as he could. But in the end, he just couldn’t do it.

Being with us made him sad. It really did. But I don’t know what to think about that. Whether that makes what he did a good thing or not.

Sal though, she never talks about him. It’s the one subject of conversation that’s off limits. I think she just wants to pretend that he isn’t really gone.

She loves him too much, that’s the problem. Even when he left, she never got angry with him. Never blamed him for leaving.

“I just wish he’d taken us with him. Why didn’t he take us with him?”

Sometimes I’d want to tell her what I thought. Tell her that there was nothing we could ever have done to get him to stay with us. That he didn’t need us enough, love us enough, to want to stay.

“I dunno” was all I could muster as a reply.

“ And anyway, Sal, does it really matter? I mean, we’re here now and there’s nothing much we can do about it.”

“What! Don’t be stupid. Of course it matters. Why does things have to be like this? I don’t want things to be like this….”

“You really think being with him would be better?”

“Could it get any worse?”

“Gee, thanks a lot…”

“Ah come on Danny, you know I don’t mean it like that. I just mean…I dunno. I just wish we were all together still, you know?”

“I dunno.”

“You dunno. What, you mean you like this then? This tip-toeing around trying not to upset her? Dad abandoning us like that. This…this whole load of bullshit misery that we have to put up with. You like this?”

“But it’s not all her fault, Sal. It’s really not all her fault. You have to admit that one day. Really, one day you’re going to have to think about that. He left us, remember? He did this to us. To her. Why do you have to go blaming her for it all the time? ….”

“I’m not blaming her Danny. It’s just .. we’re in a mess. Right now. Everything is just a mess and she has to help us now. Why can’t you see that?”

And she was right of course. There were some mornings when I’d go in to her room and she’d be sitting in the chair by the window, just gazing down at the street. All rumpled and exhausted looking from having sat there all night. And she would barely acknowledge me. Would look at me for the briefest of seconds, then turn her gaze to the widow again, as if my being there didn’t matter.

And that’s when I would long to throw the cup across the room and simply scream at her. Scream at her to get up, get out, get moving, just do something. Just realise that we all knew it wasn’t her fault. That it was okay to feel hurt by it all, but that, at some point, it had to be gone. That something like life would have to get started again.

Then she’d look at me, frail and disoriented, and I’d feel ashamed that there was so much anger in me.

“Everything okay, mum?”

“Yeah. I’m okay.”

“You look a little tired. Maybe you should get some sleep? Why don’t you go back to bed?”

And I’d help her in. Tuck her up like a small child. Pull the sheets up around her, like she used to do for me when I was a tiny kid and needed comforting.

Sometimes this was enough to make her smile, and that’s when I would start to think that perhaps sadness was something that had a limit to it after all. Even for her.

“What you worrying about, sis?”

“Hm?..”

“Sorry, didn’t mean to give you a fright.”

“Nah, it’s okay. I was just sitting here keeping myself out of the way is all.”

“Yeah, yeah, very funny. Honest though, you look worried.”

“Do I?”

“Yeah. Is it mum?”

“Yeah.”

“What did you mean this morning? When you said she was different?”

“Ah, nothing. It was just something I said to her is all.”

“What..?”

“She said she would maybe go out today. And I laughed at her.”

“Shit, really? She said that?”

“Yeah, and I just laughed. Shit Sal, what did I have to go and laugh at her for?”

“Come on, she knows you’d never mean anything cruel by it.”

“But it is cruel. I mean, ever since dad left we’ve been waiting for her to shake herself out of it. And then today she goes and says something like that and I just laugh. As if the very idea of her even thinking about recovering is just pathetic or unbelievable or something.”

“Shall we go home then? Check she’s all right?”

“Yeah, maybe. You stay here though. I can do it myself.”

“Hey, we’re in this together, okay?”

“Yeah?”

“Yeah. Come on, let’s go.”

We walked back in silence. Both of us imagining something terrible. Slowing down as we got closer to home, suddenly unsure if we wanted to get there. Neither of us saying anything in case the very saying of it would make our fears real.

When we turned onto our street, that was when we saw her.

She was standing on the front lawn, barefoot and wearing her nightdress. Her face turned upwards towards the sun.

She was smiling.

It was Sal who went up to her. Put a hand on her shoulder.

“Mum?”

“Sal, Danny. It really is a beautiful day, eh?”

What’s in your KitKat?

Small remembered moment

The street is crowded. So many people they merge into a blur. Just a flow of shapes.

Save for the boy.

Small still. Only three, perhaps four. He’d be invisible among the mass if it weren’t for the balloon.

A bright yellow thing, bobbing on a string. Trailing behind him in the crowd as his mother drags him on, pulling at his sleeve with impatient jerks. Never looking at him, never stopping to urge him on. She simply tugs at his free arm as they move through the crowd.

But the boy neither cares nor notices. He simply stares up at the balloon and smiles.

Then suddenly they stop. Their necks craned towards the sky, watching helplessly as the flash of yellow rises up between the buildings.

And briefly they are aware of one another, a tiny moment together, before she tugs again on his arm and rushes him on down the street, pushing hurriedly through the crowd.

The boy watches the balloon edge round the corner of a building and float out of sight.

Monday Morning Seven Fifteen

Sometimes she can still hear it. The rush of air that swept through the station that morning.

Everyone had blinked and taken a step backwards as the train powered through.

And as they blinked, he jumped. The train coming to halt five hundred meters up the line.

Later, the driver explained that he hadn’t even seen him. All he heard was a thump. Then a few seconds of confusion before it registered. Before he realised he had hit someone.

That was the funny thing about the whole incident. No-one on the platform could recall seeing a thing.

It was only that thump, followed by the screech of breaks that had alerted anyone to the fact that something unusual had happened.

Because the seven fifteen express never stops at this station.

Later, when they were questioning people on the platform, she’d heard one of the police officers comment on it, as if he couldn’t quite believe it.

How could something so horrific happen without anyone seeing it?

They’d handed out cards anyway, just in case. Just in case it was the shock that was blocking it from their minds. Trauma they explained. It can do things like that to you.

She’d thought about that. All those people on the platform, having a split second of their lives obliterated from their memories like that. It seemed such a strange idea. As if they’d all died together for an instant.

The train came in. Everyone blinked. The man was gone.

What she’d seen was this.

She never saw his face. Just his back. He was wearing a long black coat, unbuttoned. And when he stepped from the platform, it opened up, like the wings of some strange black bird.

There was something dreamlike about it. Something graceful and quiet. Serene even.
A macabre, beautiful dance.

That strange black bird is still so vivid, still so graceful as it glides down from the platform into the path of the oncoming train, that it hardly seems like a death at all.

Sometimes, when she remembers it, she wonders if perhaps it was an accident. That what he’d meant to do was simply catch the air and glide a while alongside the train as it sped along. That death wasn’t on his mind at all.

And that split second, that moment it happened, with the train rushing through, and sucking out the air, it was like a vacuum. Soundless. Airless. Empty.

Making it a strangely quiet death. That was what she kept thinking. That was what she would have difficulty explaining to anyone.

Because they had all heard the noise of him when the train hit. The shrill shriek of the breaks as the train came to a halt. And they had all imagined, each in their own way, the sheer bloody horror that lay on the tracks.

So she said nothing.

In the paper a few days later, there was a small paragraph detailing the incident.

Forty-five. A wife. Three kids. Just a regular guy on his way to work. No hint of what was to come.

“Son of a bitch”.

She said it out loud when she read that. Because almost immediately the images came. The scene in his home that morning. The apparent ordinariness of it.

Cups and plates on the breakfast table. The smell of coffee. Kids laughing. The wife busy and oblivious.

And all the while, him knowing what he had planned. Putting on his coat. Saying his goodbyes. No-one thinking much about it, because it’s just another Monday morning and everyone’s in a rush.

But he would have known. She can’t imagine it any other way. That he would only decide, in those last moments before the train arrived, that he was going to jump.

Damn it and she wasn’t even supposed to have be there!

Monday’s are her day off, but that day she’d been standing in for Eileen as a favour, so when he jumped, she stood there thinking “I wasn’t supposed to see this.”

There was nothing attached to the thought. No anger. No questions. Nothing like that.

Just the thought about how strange it was, that the two events should collide like that. Her being there. Him jumping.

“Son of a bitch.”

Jerry had looked up at her then.

“Who, me?”

“Hmm? Oh, no…no just something I was reading in the paper.”

“Yeah? What?”

“That man. The one that jumped the other day. He had a wife. Three kids.”

Jerry doesn’t say anything. Instead they simply look at one another.

When she’d come home that evening, the day the man jumped, she’d told Jerry about it. That she’d been late for work because someone had jumped in front of the train.

Jerry had almost choked in disbelief when she mentioned it.

“Shit, really? What, a suicide you mean?”

“I guess so.”

“Did you see it?”

“No. No-one saw anything actually. We all heard it though. There was this really terrible thump. Really awful. I think that’s when people realised something had happened. When they heard that noise.”

“My God.”

“Yeah.”

“Could they not have let you come home? Work I mean?”

“Yeah, Julie said I should go home. I think she was a bit worried the whole day actually, that I was suddenly going to break down or something. She kept coming up to me and asking if I was all right. Telling me it was okay to go home if I started to feel it was all a bit too much. I think if it had been her she would have gone home.”

“Well, that was pretty kind of her, no?”

“Yeah, I guess.

“But I wasn’t the only one on the platform. I mean plenty of other people had been there too when it happened. But they all went into work. What else is there to do? If you go home you just end up thinking about it over and over again, and I didn’t want to spend all day thinking about it. Letting it get me down, you know?”

“I suppose….”

He was doing that thing with the skin at the side of his thumb. Picking at it. Pinching it between thumb and forefinger. Something he always did when the conversation took a turn he couldn’t follow. When she said or did something that made him uncomfortable or that he disagreed with.

He never said anything. Just started picking at that little piece of skin. Sometimes until it bled.

She was going to tell him what she had seen. Tell him about the coat, the silence. All of that.

But when she started recalling the noise the man had made when the train hit, it was almost a shock. The two things just didn’t seem to match. What she heard and what she saw. And she thought that if she was to start describing, how strangely quiet and graceful the man’s descent had been, it would somehow seemed distasteful. Make her seem strange or something.

So she said nothing.

And now there was this news in front of her there in the paper. Reminding her of so many things she’d care to forget.

Like the way fathers leave.

It wasn’t really a surprise when they found him. He’d been slowly disappearing, drop by alcoholic drop, for years. So the end, when it came, had an inevitability about it that came as no surprise. If anything, it was a relief.

She’d always thought of it as a good death, her father’s. Sitting quietly one warm afternoon, out in the garden. When she’d shaken his arm to try and wake him, to let him know that it was time to come in, because dinner was ready, that was what she had thought. That he had fallen asleep. Just as he always did.

But there was something about the feel of him, even through the cotton of his shirt, that alerted her, almost as soon as she brushed her hand across the sleeve, that he was gone.

And when she looked at him, head to one side, mouth open very slightly, he looked okay. Not as terrifying as she had thought such a sight would be.

There was a looseness about the expression that she had never seen on him before, and she had wondered if perhaps this was what he had looked like when he was younger. That it was this that her mother meant when she talked about what he had been like when he was young.

The way they used to dance together. The fun they had. His energy. The way she loved him.

“He was quite a man, your dad, in his day.”

She would reminisce. Almost sad looking. Before catching herself with a brisk tsk, tsk, annoyed at her own sentimentality.

“You wouldn’t think it, to look at him now though. But really, he was something else.”

Which was something she began to say more and more often, over the years, her mother.

As if she had to repeat this half forgotten fact to herself as a reminder that at one time, this other man really had existed. But when she said it, it was always as if she wasn’t sure how she felt about the memory. Whether she was happy to remember this man she once knew or angry that he had abandoned her.

Because in those later years, the years when he was her father, the years when she and her brother were there in the house, growing up amidst the chaos of it all. In those years, it was hard to imagine that there had ever been this past. This happiness he’d once shared with her mother. It seemed strange.

That man was some imagined creature of her mother’s imagination, she was sure of it. Some wished for person. Because the father she knew, was never that man, could never have been that man.

But when she saw him then, leaning back in his chair, that calm, loose expression on his face, she thought she had looked into the past and caught a glimpse of him.

And when her mother came out, all impatience and irritation, wanting to know what was taking them so long, she found her daughter standing by the chair, smiling at the limp figure of her father, as if the death was somehow a pleasant thing. Was something to smile about.

And for a few seconds they had both stood still and looked at one another. Because something had changed between them in that instant. Some change that required them now to take each other in. To absorb the new person before them.

At the funeral, she’d overheard her mother talking about it.

“I never thought it could come as a relief to them. To the kids I mean. Not until I saw Lisa smiling like that. Until then I’d always thought his death would come as a terrible thing, you know?”

“Oh I wouldn’t read too much into it, Sarah. It must be a confusing, terrible thing for such a young child to come across their father like that. She probably thought he was playing a game or something. Pretending to be asleep. Something like that. I really wouldn’t worry about it.”

“Yes, maybe. I guess you’re right…”

But her mother’s instinct had been correct. There had been a relief to it. Something about that end that had somehow seemed right.

For years she had thought of telling her mother that. That she needn’t worry about it. About what it may have done to her, finding her father like that.

Because she worried. Right until the end she worried about it. That an experience like that could taint your life forever.

“He was a son of a bitch you know, your father? Doing that to you. To your brother. Obliterating himself like that. Making you find him there like that. He didn’t have to do that, Lisa. He didn’t have to do that….”

That had become the refrain of her final years. Like it was some invocation. Repeated over and over, as a way of trying to undo the past.

And now this. This different death. This man at the station. This story in the paper telling of his wife, his family. Those words of her mother’s, unheard for so long, now back again, clear as a bell.

She thought of the kids. Those three kids, now fatherless. Did they know, she wondered. Know what it was that he had done? Or was he simply not there any more? Is that what they had been told?

When she thought of them, a sickening knot of anger writhed in her stomach.

To stand there that morning and wait for the train to speed by. To jump despite everything.

The wife. The kids.

What could drive a man to do such a thing? It makes her nauseous, that question.

Ah, but all those things in people’s lives you can know nothing about.

The reasons people have for doing anything. Even things like this. Like this death that he had chosen for himself that morning. He did what he did and she can have no way of knowing why that was.

And yet, in the months since it happened, she’d started going back to the station again. Waking up each Monday morning with the thought of it in her head. Filled with a terrible compunction that forces her outside. Forces her to go stand on the platform and wait for the train to rush by.

This vague idea, deep inside of her, a wish even, that if she stood there again she would feel something in the air. That there was some explanation there, in the station, that could explain why a man would choose to step from a platform, into the force of an oncoming train. Something in the air, that was out with his control. That’s what she wishes sometimes.

Each Monday she did this. For over a year now. Until that Monday when she’d come home to find Jerry up and busying himself in the kitchen.

She’d stood in the doorway at first, not sure what to do. The sight of him making her nervous, because she didn’t want to talk to him about it.

“You okay?” was all he said.

“Yeah. Just got up early is all.”

And there’s a silence as he puts his coffee cup down then sighs and looks up at her.

“Every Monday, Lisa. Every Monday since it happened.”

She lets it hang in the air, as if she is hearing that fact for the very first time and it’s something that needs to be absorbed, acknowledged, before she can speak again.

“I know. I just can’t seem to sleep any more. I think about it so often, you know? Wake up thinking about it. And then it’s better just to get up.”

“Maybe you should talk to someone? It could help…”

“I keep going back to the station. Just to stand on the platform.”

He just looked at her. After all, what was he supposed to say to something like that. But she could see it shocked him. See this little furrow of worry settle on his forehead. See that he was waiting for her to say something. To explain things.

“I don’t know why I do it. I stand there sometimes and wonder why I’m there. What it is I’m hoping to resolve by being there. It’s as if….shit, I don’t know. It just helps in some way is all. When I get back, I can stop thinking about it. It helps me to stop thinking about it.”

“Until Monday comes around again…”

“Yeah…”

“Lisa…”

Their conversations would often end this way. With this sigh he had. This way of saying her name and then letting it hang there. Letting things just drift away.

Him wishing she would say more. Just tell him some things sometimes. But always knowing when to stop. When to allow the silence to settle between them.

So when he said it, when he carried on.

“Talk to someone, Lisa. Please. And not just about this…”

It froze her, as if the distance between them had crystallised right there. Right at that moment. Irrevocable.

Valencia City of Arts and Sciences

Museum of Sciences Valencia

I’ve seen many photographs of Calatrava’s City of Arts and Sciences and it’s always the beautiful compliment of architecture and engineering that strikes me.

The two can often oppose one another, but this work had always seemed, from photographs at least, to have achieved a respectful balance, perhaps due to Calatrava’s own mastery and understanding of the two disciplines.

And indeed, when you first wander around it’s this technical precision that captivates. The symmetry, the natural forms, the sheer futuristic, shimmering whiteness of the place. It is truly a marvellous sight.

Once the architectural amazement has subsided however, an unexpected presence begins to make itself felt. The old Turia river bed.

I’ve always loved cities with rivers. They can lend an openness and a freshness to a city that would otherwise be rendered claustrophobic and introverted were it not for that expanse of water flowing through it.

A river is always a refuge in a city. A place to go to when you need to see sky, feel space, breathe a little.

However, they can also be a very unforgiving forces of nature, and in Valencia’s case, after a particularly disastrous flood in 1957, the local authorities decided to redirect the Turia river.

Thankfully, in an inspired piece of urban planning, the 9 kilometres long exposed riverbed was not developed with the usual housing and offices but was given over to gardens and to public space where Calatrava’s City of Arts and Sciences now stands.

Wandering through the gardens, the presence of the river is not as evident as you would imagine. Cities as hot and dry as Valencia seem to have a particular yellowy dustiness about them that can create the impression that water is some sort of dreamed of element. A thing so rare it seems impossible. The river a long forgotten presence.

So it is to Calatrava’s credit that he has made water such an important component of the City of Arts and Sciences. The large clear turquoise pool that dominates the space reflects the white structures beautifully and adds a clean, fresh, expansiveness to the place that is missing elsewhere in the city.

I’m not sure if it was his intention to use water as some sort of homage to the old river. Perhaps it was simply the reflective architectural qualities that appealed, but walking around, I found the thoughts of that old meandering river a nice counterpoint to the ultra modern structures.

I also think the water has helped create a space that is used. When I was there the museum and gallery were virtually empty but the external space was buzzing with locals meeting up and simply hanging around.

Just as a river attracts people to it, for simple recreation, and can become a focal point for social life the vast courtyard and pool in Calatrava’s City seems to attract people for the same reason.

I had wondered, before I arrived, if the place was going to be empty and sterile; some immaculate modern edifice, that tourists and architects came to marvel and admire but which was unloved, unused by the local population.

The happy buzz of people mingling around on the site however proved that this is a place Valencians appear to love and to be justly proud of.

The Girl With The Accordion

She only ever plays a few notes.

The sounds so small and weak you have to stop and concentrate to hear them.

But most people simply walk on by.

Amid the hubub of the street, her music goes unheard, drowned out by the incessant din of life.

Sometimes you’ll catch a passerby throwing a glance in her direction, confused by this girl who sits on the ground playing an accordion that seems to make no sound.

If a few cents are thrown her way, then it is out of sympathy, rather than appreciation for the music.

Because those same few notes, played over and over, are not melodious, they are mere repetition.

Their purpose is not musical. Their purpose is to numb.

It’s as if, in order to sit there, in order to face those disinterested crowds, she has to play this four note mantra to herself, as a way to block out the world.

When she first appeared outside the store, I would refuse to toss a coin into her box.

She would have to learn to play first, was what I thought. That weak, unmelodic sound she made. That tinny noise she squeezed from the accordion, wasn’t music. Wasn’t deserving of acknowledgement or money.

Some days, it would even irritate me.

“Damn it! Why don’t you learn how to play that thing?”

But every day she would be there again. Hunched in a corner of the shop doorway. Her box at her feet, filled with a few scattered coins, all copper coloured.

That small, small sound she played, never changing.

Occasionally, she sings. Her voice a similar, thin hum of minimalist sound.

Again, not singing. Not music. Just this numbing.

I noticed it when I looked into her eyes. This far away look. Not bored. Not sad.

It went beyond that.

As if she had found a way to cancel out the world. As if, with each note played, she detached herself from everything. That gaze, stretching out into some vanishing point.

A tranquility that came, not from peace of mind, but some long forgotten desperation.

Expressed so perfectly, I now realised, in those sad little notes she plays.

Doom Be Gone Top Ten!

Sick of turning on the TV and being bombarded with doom and gloom on all fronts. So this is my doom be gone! playlist, guaranteed to cheer up even the most pessimistic of doomsayers :-)

Yes, there are a few Scottish bands in there, but hey, we’re a happy lot, us Scots :-p


The Prinsengracht Whistler

Westertoren from the Prinsengracht

I’m peddling along the Prinsengracht, late in the afternoon. Dawdling really, because it’s a go slow kind of day, because it’s warm and the trees are green and the tourists are out and about again, mulling around outside the Anne Frank House, and not looking where they’re going. Which always makes me laugh for some reason.

I love this time of year in Amsterdam. The place comes alive, without ever feeling busy or manic.

There’s a relaxed, easy going feel to things.

Maybe it’s what happens everywhere when spring takes hold and the sun comes out and stays out, but I can’t really say I’ve ever noticed it before in other cities. Not the way I notice it here, in any case.

About halfway along, just after crossing the Rozengracht, I hear him.

He’s a damn good whistler. And he’s got some improvised, jazz riff going, as he cruises behind me.

The sounds amplify along the canal and I can see people smiling as I cycle past.

I slow down to allow him to catch up, just so I can compliment him on his virtuoso performance, then stop myself and decide on something else.

I try to imagine what he looks like, this jazzy, whistling cyclist.

And the music, so free and rampant and wild immediately conjours up some beautiful, charismatic, beatnik renegade.

Some suave, stylish, relaxed man, dark haired, dark eyed and self assured.

Someone dangerous as hell in other words.

I hear him getting closer and slow down.

He passes.

Jeans. Red t-shirt. Brown shoes. Grey hair. Saddle bags. An old bike. An old guy.

Average to the point of making me laugh a little.

Save for that whistle, which carries out over the canal and resonates with everyone he passes.

He really is something else…

Amsterdam, on a spring day. I tell you, it will always surprise you.

Saerlig Store Elgfare

Sunshine and Snow

Saerlig Store Elgfare. Very High Elk Risk.

Heading out of Oslo, it was this roadsign that really made me aware of my surroundings. Of the strangely claustrophobic amount of empty space around me.

Barely an hour out of the city and already we were moving through a landscape that was vast enough to support a creature as large as an elk.

Until I read that sign, I hadn’t noticed it. The space.

I’d been too preoccupied with the weather.

Entering Oslo that morning, ice floating on the water as our ship sailed in, a thin veneer of snow still carpeting the city, I’d stood on the deck, braced against the chill, with one thought in my head.

Winter.

My God. It’s still winter here.

Back home my psyche had already made the shift to spring and I was more than ready for the change of season.

So to be assaulted by winter again seemed harsh.

Quite why I should be so taken aback by the weather is a mystery. It’s mid-March. In Norway. There’s snow on the ground.

What else did I expect?

That roadsign soon shakes me from my stupor though and with each bend in the road I scan the landscape on the lookout for a glimpse of an elk.

To no avail. The gargantuan scandinavian traffic hazards remain as elusive as ever. Damn.

We’re headed to the frozen shores of Lake Fefor, one time testing ground for a certain Scott of the Antarctic.

When I first read that Scott had come to Fefor to test his expedition gear, I must admit I wondered just what it was we thought we were doing. Was it really wise to head into such an environment with a toddler and an old dog in tow?

Scott was an intrepid adventurer. We are an urban family, off for a spot of quiet R&R. The very idea that we are off on holiday to an Antarctic training ground just makes me giggle.

My first glimpse of the Fefor Hoyfjellshotel does little to dispel my perplexed merriment.

A creosote red, wooden outpost, with formidable carved dragons roaring from its rafters. Gee.

Twin Peaks Revisited

Inside, it seems strangely familiar and it takes me a while before I realise that I am walking inside the set of “Twin Peaks”. Or that’s how it feels at least.

Something about the lighting, the decor, the wood. It feels very weird, very Lynchian. Very funny.

The taxidermied fauna on the walls, however, are testament to the fact that this place is far from some liminal, dissonant world. It is very real.

A hunting, fishing kind of place. Earthy. Masculine. A place where stuffed animals seem somehow fitting.

From the window, I look down at the frozen lake and spot a solitary figure sitting there, hunched over his hole, head bowed intently. An ice fisher.

I’ve never seen someone do this before and I stand transfixed, waiting to see if he will move. Five minutes or so pass, perhaps more, and there is no movement from the little figure out on the ice.

I think of the herons back home, perched still, almost lifeless on the river banks, lying in wait for their fish. My fisherman is as still as they are, as patient, and something about the way in which he sits, the small, unmoving stillness of it, tells me that its this sitting that matters most. A fish on the line would almost be a distraction, a rude awakening from this transcedent bliss he seems to have found out there, alone on the ice.

Maybe David Lynch would be at home here right enough.

Especially at this time of year. Winter’s end, the crowds gone, the snow beginning to melt. I don’t think I’ve ever been to an emptier place.

It takes a while to get used to actually, this emptiness. Empty hotels have a very strange feeling to them. The corridors seem too long, the sounds seem too hollow. Things seem to expand and contract simultaneously.

The few people that are around, turn out to be locals here for the weekend, for a bit of skiing and a dinner dance. They stay one night and revel, then, just as quickly they are gone, and the heavy atmosphere returns once more.

I have to remind myself not to pay too much attention to the mood of the hotel. That we’re not here to smooch around indoors, but to charge around, hale and hearty in the snow.

Which is just as well, for the space here, the sheer expanse of it, is a perfect antidote for any claustrophobia.

Hours and hours of wide, white space and undulating horizons. Peopled, it seems, by no-one but ourselves.

Each day we head out into this space under a sky of cornflower blue, the low sun sharpening the glint of the snow and transforming the landscape from colour to black and white when you turn into it.

It is impossible to imagine anything more perfect. Some days I just stop and twist about, watching this play of light just for the hell of it. Just because there is no rush about anything. If I want to mesmerise myself with the light, then I can.

Behind me, all I can hear is the scratching crunch of Nikki’s paws as he putters about in the snow.

He may be an old dog, but this is the landscape that envigorates him and sends him flying around with a grin on his face as wide as the Amazon.

I had worried that he wouldn’t be able to keep up with us this time, that his eleven years would have crept into his bones and sent him snuggling up to the log fire and his basket, but nothing could have been further from his mind. One look at the snow and he was scratching at the door to get out and get running.

Dogsleding On Lake Fefor Norway
Perhaps the local huskies had spurred him on. The day before he had sat on the ridge above the lake and watched us as we hurtled across the ice with the dogs. Their high pitched braying and enthusastic howling seemed to carry all over the lake and I could see Nikki was straining to run with us, to join in with this canine chase across the ice.

In the end he settled for charging down the hill ahead of Helena’s sled, racing her to the bottom then charging back up the hill, his loopy toungue hanging out with glee.

It’s been years since I’ve seen him move so fast. There must be some rejuvenating element concealed in that snow he’s been eating. I consider bottling it as a wonder cure and selling it on to Californians.

Then I realise that there is nothing wondrous about any of this.

It’s just what happens when you leave the city. Leave that world behind and come to some place quiet and elemental.

Norway always does this to me. It takes me so far away from everything, everyone, and allows me just to be.

To just turn into the sun and breathe and realise that this is all I ever really need…

Niagara

There must have been something so absolute about it, so certain about it, when he looked down.

A 54 metre drop. 110,000 cubic metres of water plunging over the edge each minute. The froth and rage of water as it hits the Niagara River.

You throw yourself into that abyss expecting nothing other than obliteration.

How does it feel then I wonder, to plummet headlong into that tumult, only to find yourself bobbing back up again? To realise, with every gulp of air, that this most certain and spectacular attempt at self annihilation has failed?

Do you rejoice that fate has decided you will live? Do you stand up and experience some strange epiphany, some glorious, reinvigorating engagement with life?

Or do you find, in this failure, merely the terrible confirmation that all your efforts in this life really are for nought?

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